Description

What is Diisostearyl Malate?

YLDISM (INCI: Diisostearyl Malate, CAS 66918-01-2) is the di-ester of malic acid with isostearyl alcohol — a branched C18 fatty alcohol. It is supplied as a clear to slightly hazy, colourless to pale yellow, viscous but non-tacky liquid with a hydroxyl value of 48–82 mg KOH/g. That free hydroxyl group is what makes the material interesting: it gives the molecule a polar anchor that grips pigment surfaces, while two long branched C18 chains keep the whole thing soft, glossy and skin-friendly.

In practice Diisostearyl Malate plays two roles at once. It is a high-gloss emollient and binder that gives body, cushion and a wet, reflective finish, and it is an outstanding dispersing agent for pigments and powders. In a lipstick or lip gloss it wets and de-agglomerates the colourants, holds the powder load in a smooth paste, helps the bullet press cleanly, and forms a flexible film that stays glossy on the lips without feathering. This is why it is considered a star ingredient in colour cosmetics — formulators reach for it whenever a formula has to look brilliant, feel weightless and keep its colour where it was applied.

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Key Benefits

• Exceptional gloss and shine — a high-refractive, non-volatile ester that leaves a wet, mirror-like finish on lips and adds depth to any colour cosmetic, with none of the stickiness of a traditional castor oil system.
• Superior pigment wetting and dispersion — the free hydroxyl group adsorbs onto pigment and filler surfaces, breaking down agglomerates and stabilising the dispersion, so colour develops evenly and the shade stays true from batch to batch.
• Binder and viscosity builder — adds body and cushion to pressed and hot-pour systems, improves mould release and helps the bullet or pan hold its shape without cracking or sweating.
• Reduces colour migration and syneresis — holds oils and colourants together in the film, cutting the feathering and bleeding that ruin the wear of a lipstick or lip gloss over a few hours.
• Soft, non-tacky, non-greasy skin feel — the branched C18 chains keep the texture light and comfortable even at high loading, so gloss does not turn into glue.
• Excellent skin compatibility and stability — a saturated, oxidatively stable ester with a low iodine value and a well-established safety profile in colour cosmetics and skincare.

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FAQ

• Why is it so widely used in lipstick and lip gloss?

Because it solves three problems at once: it disperses the colourants evenly, it gives the bullet or gloss structure and mouldability without tackiness, and it forms a flexible, highly reflective film that stays shiny and keeps the colour in place. Few single ingredients cover gloss, binding and pigment wetting this well.

• What does the hydroxyl value tell me?

The hydroxyl value (48–82 mg KOH/g for this grade) measures the free –OH groups left on the malate backbone. It is the practical indicator of how polar and how surface-active the ester is — and therefore how well it wets and disperses pigments and powders. A consistent hydroxyl value is the best single guarantee of consistent dispersing performance from batch to batch.

• Is Diisostearyl Malate the same as isostearyl alcohol or diisopropyl adipate?

No. Isostearyl alcohol (CAS 27458-93-1) is the branched C18 alcohol used as one of the raw materials, and diisopropyl adipate (CAS 6938-94-8) is a much lighter, lower-viscosity emollient ester. Diisostearyl Malate is a distinct, much heavier di-ester with its own INCI name and CAS number, and it is not interchangeable with either.

• Is Diisostearyl Malate natural or synthetic?

It is a synthetic ester: malic acid esterified with isostearyl alcohol, which is normally derived from vegetable (plant) sources. Bio-based and mass-balance grades are available from some producers — specify your sourcing requirement when requesting a quotation.

• What is the recommended use level?

Typically 5 %–30 % in lipstick, lip gloss and lip balm; 3 %–15 % in other colour cosmetics; 2 %–8 % in skincare; and 1 %–5 % in hair care. It can be added to the oil phase during the hot or cold process, and pre-dispersing the pigments in Diisostearyl Malate before adding the rest of the oil phase usually gives the best colour development.